We left Como bright and early in readiness for our journey East. Seeking to avoid the drudgery of a motorway trek we opted to venture north from Como heading toward the Alto-Adige.
Embarking on a road trip through the enchanting Dolomites is a journey that promises breathtaking landscapes and adrenaline-pumping adventures. However, it is hard to escape the Italian driving style which inevitably colours the experience. And they did not disappoint! Here, as around Como, we dodged ageing Fiats emerging from side turnings without notice. As we climbed higher we also gasped as the bikers, seemingly all sporting a VR46 sticker on their helmet, raced past as we approached each hairpin bend.
Yet, their audacity is part of the charm. Amidst this automotive ballet, the Dolomites' rugged beauty and culinary delights will sweep you off your feet, making it an unforgettable adventure.
Thankfully we witnessed no mishaps or injuries and soon arrived at a large market where we could restock on essential provisions. Tomatoes, prosciutto, pasta and roasted peppers soon filled our arms, along with new supplies of items necessary to maintain our personal hygiene!
Our agenda necessitated that we continue and we soon arrived at the mountain town of Cles. This is a comune in the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol region of northern Italy. This sleepy town boasts a central square which was decked with garlands of flowers and musical instruments attached to every lamp post in readiness for a forthcoming festival. The town hall sits imperious just below the square with its bleached marble and colourful flags. A cheerful adjacent vendor happily served us gelato which we consumed sitting in the shade, relaxing in time with the towns sympathetic rhythm.
Cles Town Hall
Refreshing fruit drink Lake Bled
Craft market, Ljubljana
Driving further we crossed the border into Slovenia and soon descended along twisting roads to the town of Lesce. Nestled amongst verdant slopes and meadows, fair Lesce exudes rustic charm with its quaint cottages, cobblestone lanes, and pristine lakes, a haven for the discerning traveler's respite. We camped at Sobec, overlooking the cool, clear, turquoise lake with a colony of fat, well-fed ducks providing constant entertainment as they bickered over scraps of food, and flitted around the lakes margins.
We had been told that we should take the opportunity to visit the town of Bled so set off to hike a rocky path to discover this jewel of a settlement. Bled is set in the foothills of the Julian Alps, alongside the glacial Lake Bled. On a cliff overlooking the lake is the 11th-century Castle. Atop a small island in the lake's centre is the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Maria, with its steep staircase and bell tower.
Our route to Bled took us across buttercup strewn meadows and through a steep sided gorge before reaching its outskirts. We strolled around the lake, ate roasted peppers and grilled cheese and drank outrageous quantities of blueberry and raspberry spritzers. The heat was intense. The lake glistened. Couples sauntered arm-in-arm along the lake shore and through the adjoining park, whose signage read: “Stay off the grass”; “No swimming”; “No sunbathing”; “Enjoy Lake Bled”!
The following day we arrived in the heart of picturesque Ljubljana, where cobblestone streets wind like a maze. Being conscious of its place in history as a place where east and west could rub shoulders during the Cold War this captivating place truly feels like a world of spies and secret assignments. Missions unfolding unseen as everyday folk go about their everyday business. One imagines inconspicuous agents meeting by the Triple Bridge, exchanging coded messages beneath the watchful gaze of dragons. The riverside cafes suggest clandestine rendezvous, where espresso cups hold more than meets the eye. Dead drops disguised as antique trinkets hide vital documents in plain sight. As the sun sets over Ljubljana Castle, the city's secrets come alive, echoing with whispers of intrigue and adventure, where spies dance between shadows, and espionage becomes the only act on this enchanting Slovenian stage.
We drank bubble tea opposite the Cathedral under the watchful gaze of six archbishops, strolled past the souvenir stores, quenched our late afternoon thirst with peach tea at an ancient café and looked excitedly for each new manifestation of Slovenian humour outside the bars, cafes and businesses. "We have beer as cold as your ex-girl friends heart" read one!
Dear reader, our travels will continue. For now we will leave you as we venture on.
Sobec - view from our bed
Ljubljana Cathedral
The six archbishops
Artisanal shops
Ljubljana centre
The castle
Cold War era graffiti
Every ones a joker
Quaint cobbled streets
