Following a southerly course after leaving Ljubljana we chose to overnight at Camping Bela Krajina. The campsite sits in a gorgeous and tranquil location along the Kolpa River. It’s is a peaceful oasis - peaceful, that is, apart from the bells! As the evening proceeds one becomes increasingly aware of the number of bells that chime regularly from the multitudinous churches in the vicinity. Every 15 minutes from one, every 30 minutes for another and every hour from them all. There seems to be no curfew - the toll is relentless throughout the night, until at 6AM there is a steady tolling that one assumes is the morning call to the fields, or to church. By that time my empathy for Quasimodo was complete - “The Bells, The Bells”!
Our stay was for but one night since our objective was to visit Plitvice the following day.
Nestled in the heart of Croatia lies a natural masterpiece, Plitvice Lakes National Park, a place where Mother Nature herself seems to have pulled out all the stops and thrown in a few surprises just for fun. It’s a land of pristine beauty, where the water sparkles like a lake of turquoise gemstones, the forests whisper secrets only the trees understand, and the tourists, armed with selfie sticks and a touch of wanderlust-induced chaos, fall over each other in pursuit of the perfect Instagramable moment.
Picture this: sixteen cascading lakes, dressed in hues that would make a painter blush, tumble gracefully over travertine barriers. Each lake flaunts its unique personality, as if they’re in some celestial beauty pageant. As you explore, it’s hard not to feel like you’re on a magical quest to discover the fountain of youth. The myriad waterfalls, the Croatian word for waterfall is “slap”, constantly surprise you. They tumble between smaller lakes like gossamer curtains, whilst the literally named Veliki Slap (Large Waterfall) thunders down highlighting the red and ochre tones of the cliff face beneath.
The wooden walkways wind through the park like a complex maze, and it’s as if they were designed to test the navigational skills of even the most intrepid travellers. You’ll spot tourists looking more bewildered than Indiana Jones in a lost temple. But let’s not be too hard on them; after all, we’re all tourists here. We’ve all been caught in the act, trying to capture a bit of Plitvice’s magic in our own way. It’s a place that leaves an indelible mark on your soul, and it’s hard not to be affected by such breathtaking beauty.
As the sun sets over Plitvice, casting its golden glow on the lakes and waterfalls, you’ll find yourself chuckling at the delightful chaos of the tourists. You’ll realize that, in the end, it’s all part of the experience, a reminder that even in the most serene corners of the world, there’s room for a bit of laughter and human folly. Plitvice Park, Croatia, is not just a place of natural wonder; it’s a place of joy and awe.
Further awe was to be found the following day with a visit to the Cave Park Grabovaca. Driving into the forest one arrives at this protected landscape with its rich geodiversity, biodiversity, landscape and cultural diversity. This site is a hidden gem - a place where nature's artistry intertwines with the mysteries of the underground world.
As we entered the park, the lush greenery and serene surroundings immediately captured our senses. The park's beauty was, however, in stark contrast to the excitement that lay beneath the surface. Our guide led us as we descended into the intricate labyrinth of caves and tunnels that make Grabovaca famous. The eerie darkness was punctuated by the soft glow of halogen lamps shining on stalactites and stalagmites, creating a surreal atmosphere that felt like another world altogether.
Exploring the caves, we marvelled at the incredible formations sculpted by nature over millennia. The guide's informative narrative added depth to the experience as we learned about the geological history, the flora and fauna and previous visitors to these awe-inspiring chambers, such as the Austrian military explorers whose graffiti remains visible, frozen in time, on a massive crystalline structure. The highlight was undoubtedly the imposing Great Hall, a cathedral-like chamber adorned with colossal stalagmites that soared towards the ceiling, reminding us of ancient, frozen sentinels.
Emerging from the depths, we were greeted by the park's surface wonders – picturesque hiking trails, lush meadows, and vibrant wildlife. We could not help but feel a profound connection with nature, having witnessed both its hidden wonders and its surface beauty. Our visit to Cave Park Grabovaca left an indelible mark, reminding us of the earth's astounding beauty and the mysteries that still await discovery beneath its surface.
From here we ventured north to Zagreb en-route to Budapest over the border in Hungary. Our journey took us via Keszthely. This is a town of gently crumbling grand town houses perched at the western edge of Lake Balaton. It is far removed from the tourist hot spots on the lake. You can take a dip in small, shallow beaches and get a dose of culture by popping into the town's handful of museums and admiring its historical buildings.
Our stay here was brief for Budapest beckons. Of that, more soon.
